Makgeolli: A Taste of Korean Tradition

It would probably be more accurate to consider "takju" (탁주, 濁酒 - "cloudy wine") as the more general term. Takju is produced by fermenting starchy products such as rice. Cheongju (청주/淸酒) is its noble "brother" - a "clear", transparent rice wine.

In Japan, there are types of sake similar to makgeolli (for example, "nigori sake"), and doburoku is not filtered at all.

China also has its own "takju" (though it is consumed only in a few regions; in most cases, it is the raw material for the production of huangjiu, "yellow wine"); and in Thailand, it is called sato.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897), many yangban (noble) families produced their own alcoholic beverages. The ingredients and proportions varied, but grains were undoubtedly the main component. The common people consumed simpler drinks during breaks from hard labor; often referred to as 농주 (nongju, "peasant wine") alongside the term 새참 (saecham, "work snack").

Jeong Yak-yong in his treatise 목민심서 (Mokmin Simseo, "The Book for Governing the People") writes that during years of poor harvests, when the government imposed bans on alcohol, violators should be strictly punished. However, just a few pages later, he adds that takju ("cloudy wine") was overlooked due to its nourishing properties. A similar attitude can be observed with beer in the West, where it was called "liquid bread" and used as a substitute for food.

The press cake - residues from the wine brewing process (chikgogi) were used by the poor as a substitute for expensive alcohol or for making "alcoholic bread" (sulttok). These residues, with the addition of leftover mash or grain flour, underwent a second fermentation, which is considered the origin of common takju, and its most widespread variant - makgeolli. Although its taste is inferior to pure rice wine, its low cost made it a popular drink among farmers nationwide.

Towards the end of the Korean Empire and during the period of Japanese colonial policy towards Korea, taxes and licensing for alcohol were introduced to increase tax revenue, with homemade wines subjected to higher rates. This led to a decline in the culture of home winemaking and the loss of traditions in wines that were passed down from generation to generation, gradually evolving and contributing to the creation of new varieties. Modern traditional wines, such as 이강고 (Iganggo), have been recreated based on surviving documents. Some traditional drinks continued to exist in the form of moonshine (unlicensed, illegally).

"Takju" ("cloudy wine"), is mentioned in "Goryeo Dogyeon," a book written by Xu Jing, who visited Goryeo in 1123 as an envoy from the Song dynasty. This drink was already popular among the common people at that time.

During the Joseon dynasty, the production of takju did not change significantly; it was brewed in various ways throughout the country. Makgeolli was the most common form among the general population because it was easy to produce in large quantities. However, the higher social classes, such as the yangban, also appreciated good takju, such as ihwaju and hapju, as well as cheongju ("clear wine"). Nevertheless, in the northern part of the Korean Peninsula, except for Hwanghae-do, takju was not as widely adopted because there was a lack of rice and, logically, suitable conditions for its cultivation.

The period of Japanese occupation and subsequent military dictatorship led to the loss of many traditional alcoholic beverages, and takju was no exception. Today, the name takju is often understood to mean makgeolli, although in reality, takju refers to a broader category of cloudy alcoholic beverages, with makgeolli being just one of its subtypes. Nevertheless, there are hopes for the revival of some traditional takju recipes, thanks to the efforts of researchers working with ancient texts containing various recipes.

At the end of the Japanese colonial period (1940-1945) in Korea, there was a food shortage. Even after liberation, the chronic shortage of food persisted, and a large amount of grain was imported.

As a result, from 1964, the use of rice in makgeolli was prohibited, and it began to be brewed mixing 80% wheat flour and 20% imported corn. This led to a decline in the quality of the drink. Consequently, poorer people switched to soju, while the middle class and above turned to beer and whiskey.

Later, as rice production increased and consumption decreased, the "saved" rice allowed rice makgeolli to be permitted again from 1971. However, due to the standardization of brewing methods, it no longer tasted the same and was so expensive that it disappeared within a year. This led to a return to brewing makgeolli from wheat flour.

In our time, rice makgeolli has once again won favor and established itself as a traditional Korean alcoholic beverage.

Makgeolli production methods are similar to those of clear rice wine (cheongju), except for the final filtration stage and the water ratio. The production uses three main ingredients:

• Rice
• Nuruk (a type of malt; prepared by coarsely grinding wheat or steamed soybeans, etc., kneading them into dough, and forming something akin to patties, which are then fermented to propagate the "nuruk culture")
• Water.

In various regions, there are many small local makgeolli brands, but due to the short shelf life, the variety available in local stores and supermarkets is not extensive; at most, large stores might carry 10-20 types. Specialized bars offer a broader selection, and online stores feature hundreds of different makgeolli brands. Some small producers only sell their product in their own shops.

Pocheon in Gyeonggi Province is renowned for its makgeolli breweries, and Pocheon makgeolli is recognized as a traditional beverage of the province. Various brands such as Idong and Pocheon makgeolli are widely distributed and popular.

Pocheon is famous for its makgeolli because the northern part of Gyeonggi Province traditionally has plenty of clean water and good rice, creating ideal conditions for makgeolli production. Rice from nearby areas, including Cheorwon in Gangwon Province, is also known as excellent raw material for production.

Each region has factories specializing in makgeolli production, for example, Seoul Takju and Daegu Takju in Seoul and Daegu respectively. Makgeolli spoils quickly; hence, until 1999, there were restrictions on selling regional non-sterilized varieties only within their respective regions.

Despite a decline in popularity in the past, makgeolli is experiencing a resurgence, partly thanks to new laws that allow restaurants and bars to produce and sell their own makgeolli. Some factories have begun producing makgeolli with added fruits and other ingredients, aiming to improve its quality and expand the market.