Korea, Between the Lines

A picturesque 2-storey bridge over the sea in Busan is one of its most exquiste landmarks.

A very piquturesque district in Busan, which was originally founded by some refugees during the Korean War.

Breathtaking views of downtown Busan from the seaside Lotte Department Store. The department store, by the way, was included in the Guinness Book of Records: it houses the world's tallest indoor fountain.

Exciting journey above the sea with eye-catching views of the coastal Busan.

Most popular beach in Busan and a vivid resort district.

The largest seafood market in Korea, where you can see all kinds of marine creatures, both from the plant and animal worlds (and from the border worlds too!).

You can also eat deliciously at the market: fried or raw fish, as well as seafood, is served at the table in numerous restaurants in the market.

If you prefer something less exotic, we recommend the food court at the Lotte department store next door. The observation deck at the department store offers a magnificent view of Busan from a bird's eye view.

The Island of Geojedo connected to Busan by an amazing under-sea tunnel is the original capital of the Korean shipbuilding industry. However, we are interested in a small island Wedo, which can be reached by a local ferry boat. The island is situated at a distance of four kilometers from the "big" Kochzhe-up.
Wedo Island is part of the first Marine National Park of Korea Hallyo Haesang. Mr. Lee Hanh and his wife turned Wedo into a beautiful private botanical garden in which you will find both Korean, and quite a lot of exotic species.

Cheomseongdae is one of the oldest observatories in the world (7th century). The tower of the observatory is full of symbolism: the total number of hewn stones from which it is built; the number of rows of these stones before and above the small window, the shape of the stones... Reasonable Silakians paid attention to everything.

Cheomseongdae was built under the reigning Queen Seondok - one of three in the history of Silla. The queen ended up in a drama that, of course, was filmed in Gyeongju.

The Buddha statue in this small temple in an artificial grotto is considered the most elegant in All of Korea! The grotto is located on the slope of Mount Tkhohamsan, where the winding serpentine of the mountain road leads.

The walk to the temple through the mountain forest from the parking lot takes about 15-20 minutes; depending on the weather, either a mysterious foggy landscape awaits us (fogs are not uncommon on this mountain), or breathtaking bird's-eye views of the thousand-year-old Gyeongju.

In the grotto, which is formally the hermitage of the Bulguksa temple, located below the slope, the dominant position is occupied by the above-mentioned statue of Buddha, sitting in a lotus position on a pedestal in the shape of a lotus. Around it at different heights are bas-reliefs and statues of bodhisattvas, arhats, Indra and Brahma, the Four Heavenly Kings.

If the group agrees, we can go down the mountainside to the temple of Bulguksa.

The main Buddhist temple of United Silla, it is now a place of pilgrimage for many guests of Korea.

The temple was built in 774 under the leadership of the premier of the state of Silla, Kim Taesong. Legend has it that Bulguksa was dedicated to the parents of the current, so to speak, Kim Taesong. While Seokguram, the temple-hermitage under Bulguksa, was intended for Kim Taesung's parents from his previous incarnations.

In 1995, Bulguksa and Seokguram were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The main state Gyeongju temple from the Silla period, the "Temple of the Yellow Dragon", Hwanyeongsa, has not survived; however, we still have a unique opportunity to get acquainted with the pagoda of a hermitage temple of Hwanyeongsa. The hermitage temple is called Punghwansa.

The peculiarity of the pagoda of Punghwansa is that it is built of stones, hewn in such a way that they resemble bricks in shape. What can you not do if you are not familiar with the technology (brick production, in this case)!

The only mound which inner parts are open to the public (though filled with replicas, it shows the inner construction of a Shilla mound)

Though made anew, it is a nice and quite picturesque place, especially at night.

A shrine that houses a portrait of the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo (Lee Songye). An extensive complex of buildings, including the sanctuary itself, the state sago archive, a museum, the burial place of the placenta of King Yechzhon, and a complex of auxiliary buildings.

Why and who made portraits of kings, what is a historical archive, why bury the royal placenta - we will try to find answers to these questions in Gyeonggijeong.

Imokte is in a small area called Chaman Graffiti Village; the walls of the houses here are painted by professionals and amateurs: the world of Japanese manga and Korean manhwa; korean alphabet, fantastic, disney cartoon characters, traditional korean stories.

In the very historical center of Jeonju, you will find yourself in a fabulous atmosphere. Traditional Korean hanok houses with tiled roofs line the romantic narrow streets. Here, each house is a unique masterpiece of architecture, reflecting the richness and depth of Korean history.

Walking along these streets, you will notice how each house merges with the surrounding nature and creates a harmonious image. You will see small gardens with flowers, well-kept courtyards, as well as traditional decor elements that recreate the atmosphere of antiquity, and sometimes, on the contrary, remind us of modern design trends.

Recently, it has become fashionable for Koreans and guests of the Land of the Morning Calm to rent stylized costumes - traditional hanbok, or European costumes of the era of the first half of the 20th century, which is closer to us. In Jeonju, you will see many such couples or families looking exotic against the backdrop of historical buildings and traditional hanok houses...

Omokdae-Imokdae

Unfortunately, the Confucians were not very tolerant of Catholicism. We are reminded of this by the Jeonju Catholic Cathedral (built in 1908-1931), located on the site of the executions of Catholics.

In 1592, the Japanese army attacked Korea and for 6 years the Korean people bravely fought for their independence. Jinjuseong Fortress, towering over the Namgang River, was a key stronghold in southern Korea. Since 1963, the fortress has been a Historical National Treasure No. 118.

The National Museum of Jinju, located on the territory of the fortress, boasts authentic treasures of Korean culture, such as painting, sculpture, graphics; The exposition of the museum will also present us the history of the defense of the fortress during the Imjin War.

By the way, let's talk about kisaeng.

If the word “sonsen”, known to the world in the Japanese transcription “sensei”, means literally “born to”, then “kisen” - see, the second syllable is the same? - should mean “born “ki”. What is "ki"?

The hieroglyph 妓 (ki) has 2 parts - “woman” and “support”. Kinyo (lit. “woman 妓”) or kisaeng (“born 妓”) are a special class of personally unfree women who belonged to the state, whose task was to entertain guests. Guests of the state, it turns out.

But this is a formal definition. To understand who kisaeng are, we will have to delve into the social relations and culture of Korea during the heyday of the kisaeng institution.

Why is this a fortress? One of the legendary heroines of the defense of the Jinju fortress was just kisaeng!

The cave, located in the heart of the "spine" of Korea - Taebaek, impresses with its size. Even is remenicent of the "Palace of the Mountain King." and, by the way, lighted accordingly!

The total length of the passages of the cave - 6.5 km. The cave is situated at an altitude of approx. 800 m. above the sea level.

The park and sanctuary of the goddess who patronizes fishermen - Hesindan - is amazing: according to legend, it was the images of the phalluses that propitiated the spirit of a virgin who for a long time did not give rest to the surrounding fishermen, and later became their patroness.

A futuristic complex by world-famous architect Zaha Hadid, a fashion and design center with flowing lines and modern aesthetics. Located in the Dongdaemun area. A venue for exhibitions, forums, fashion shows, biennales, etc.

Gyeongbokgung Palace became the first residence of Korea's new Joseon Dynasty in 1395.

During the war with Japan (1592-1598) the palace was almost completely destroyed; however, it was restored in the middle of the 19th century and again became the residence of the Korean kings.

The palace is the architectural center of the northern part of the city of Seoul and impresses both with its size and extraordinary symmetry.

You will not only be able to capture yourself against the background of classical palace architecture, but also hear an entertaining story from our guide about the history, palace culture, the customs of the royal family, the symbolic meaning of the material attributes of the palace.

Immerse yourself in the culinary heart of Kwangjang Market, rightfully called a paradise for lovers of traditional food in the heart of Seoul. Here, the rich aromas of Korean street food and more substantial dishes come to life. Enjoy crispy hotteok pancakes, steaming servings of tteokbokki, and juicy Korean dumplings (mandu). The lively atmosphere, filled with the sounds of sizzling and enticing aromas, will give you an unforgettable sensory experience. Whether you're a gourmet or simply looking to explore Korean cuisine, Kwangjang is the perfect place to taste authentic dishes and dive into the culinary culture of Seoul.

Insadong is famous for the abundance of souvenir shops, traditional restaurants and tea houses, boutiques.

Insadong-kil Pedestrian Street is the central street of the area.

Often you can see street performances - traditional Korean samul-nori percussion quartet or martial arts tekkyon, taekwon-do or performances of youth groups in the fusion style, etc.

Symbiosis of urban landscape architecture and nature - the Cheonggyecheon River; everything is artificial in it: the bed of the river, the banks, the water itself ...

In fact, it was a real, natural river; but after the Korean War, it was "hidden" underground. As a result of the grandiose Cheonggyecheon restoration project in 2005, the river was reopened to visitors and residents of Seoul.

Temple of Bongeunsa is located in close proximity to the COEX Convention and Exhibition Center.

Originally named Gyeongseongsa, it was built by King Wonseong of the Silla Kingdom in the 10th year of his reign (794 AD).

In 1498, thanks to Queen Jeonghyeon, it was renovated and expanded to the east of King Seongjong's tomb, and at that time it was given its new name - Bongeunsa.

The iconic view of COEX is visible from the Maitreya Buddha statue on the temple grounds.

The complex of the central Gwanghwamun Square in front of the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace, which is the compositional center of the capital of Korea, offers amazing views of Seoul: on one side is the main residence of the kings of the Joseon state (now a museum). But along the  Sejong-daero Avenue, departing from the square, there are high-rise modern buildings: government, embassies, Kyobo - the largest bookstore in Korea. Further down the avenue we can see the Seoul City Hall and still further - the Great South Gate of Namdaemun (National Treasure No. 1).

The longest in the world (1140 m) fountain on a bridge.

The tallest building in Korea is Lotte World Tower. 123 floors and 555 meters high. And on the highest floors is Seoul Sky - an observation deck.

Floor with transparent floor; the floor where you can go outside, the floor with cafes and souvenirs. Even the elevator that takes you to Seoul Sky is a separate attraction with Guinness records to boot.

The unique architectural structure was opened to the general public (and city officials, of course) in 2013.

Its uniqueness lies in environmentally friendly, unusual and unexpected solutions: a double facade of an unusual shape, reminiscent of a sea wave, covering, by the way, the former Seoul City Hall; choice of heating sources; way of preserving the old city hall, Guinness record for the world's largest vertical green façade (internal).

This statue is a must-visit for fans of PSY's global hit "Gangnam Style." It's a playful spot to capture fun and memorable photos, especially if you strike the famous horse dance pose!

To the northeast of Gyeongbokgung Palace lies the scenic hilly area of ​​Samcheon-dong. Due to the fact that the residence of the President of the Republic of Kazakhstan was located north of Gyeongbokgung (and west of Samcheon-dong), development activity in Samcheon-dong is very limited. Thus, despite the unique location in the center of the capital of Korea, there are no high-rise buildings in this area, and the cost of land is relatively low. This feature gives the area a unique charm: art galleries have chosen it; cafes and restaurants; flea markets and boutiques of stylized Korean clothes; here you will see a large number of preserved Korean-style houses - hanok.

The name of the district comes from the name of the government office of the Kingdom of Joseon, Samcheon-jeong (also known as Seogyeok-jeon); Samcheon-jeong's activities included performing Taoist sacrifices to Heaven, Earth and Stars. Literally, the name translates as "Districts / quarter of three purity": "Clean (light) mountains and clean water lead to greater purity and kindness of the human soul."

Большие Восточные ворота в крепостной стене Сеула

There is a gondola in the park, which we will use to get almost to the top of one of the peaks of Seoraksan, on which the ruins of the ancient Kwonggeum Fortress (lit., "Kwon Geum Fortress") are located. We get to the peak on foot - it's about 20-30 minutes. From this peak, a magnificent panorama of the East Sea, the resort town of Sokcho and the mountain range of the park opens.

Not far from the lower gondola station is Sineungsa Temple (originally built in the 6th century, but later rebuilt many times). The temple complex includes a statue of the Buddha of Unification (Thonil Buddha), the name of which reflects the desire of Koreans to unite the country.

A picturesque route leads us to Hyndyl Pawi ("swinging rock"). A huge rock will sway at the touch of one person.

Optional, if everybody is in: hiking to the top of Mount Ulsan Pawi; you will have to strain a little - the height of the rock is 873 m.

One of the oldest Buddhist temples in Korea, founded by the legendary monk Uisan (7th century AD).

In addition, Naksan-sa is considered (and rightfully) one of the "Beautiful Eight Places of Gwangdong" (Gwangdong - part of Gangwon Province between the East Sea and the Taebaek mountain range). Judge for yourself...