From Bakje Smile to Chosun Fortress: three epochs

The famous "Baekje smile" is the characteristic friendly and warm facial expression of the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, reproduced in the statues of the state of Baekje (18 BC - 660 AD).

Of course, reproductions and photographs are one thing; but getting to know the smile in the original is different! It used to be quite difficult to get to the "smile" - after all, the Buddhist trinity is located in the Korean outback - Sosan County, South Chungcheong Province, but now an asphalt road has been laid here; we have to walk only a short section of the path ... Nearby are the ruins of the temple, in which there was a hermitage (satellite temple / hermit's dwelling) with the Buddha and 2 bodhisattvas with our smile.

The unique technique and artistry of the unknown master will allow us to see the open, unburdened, friendly expression on the face of the Baekje people who lived here more than 1400 years ago.

Keshinsa is a satellite temple (subordinate) to the famous Sudoksa, which has one of the few wooden structures from the Goryeo period; but, if Sudoksa, with the exception of the main hall, looks quite "modern" on the whole, then the spirit of antiquity has been preserved in Keynes ...

It was founded in 654 (the 14th year of the reign of King Uizha-wang of the state of Baekje) by the monk Hegam (혜감/慧鑑) under the name Kewonsa (ke - discovery; won - beginning). In 1350 (the 2nd year of the reign of King Chungsuk-wang of Goryeo), it was renamed Kasimsa (sim - soul; kesim - spreading wisdom). Burnt down in 1475 but rebuilt in 1484. In 1740, it underwent another reconstruction and has not undergone significant changes since then. Thus, before us is a temple with a history dating back centuries, and with several buildings from the Early Joseon era!

Taeuncheon - 1484. Buddha and bodhisattvas in the main hall - Taeucheon - non-standard: Amitabha, Ksitigarbha and Avalokiteshvara. "Hall of the found knife [wisdom]", located to the left of Daeungjeong - apparently, was erected simultaneously with it; on the right is the Eternal Life Pavilion (무량수각); The composition of the central part of the temple is completed by the open pavilion Anyallu - "Tranquility and Rest".

Myeongbujeong ("Hall of 10 Lords of the Underworld") was built in 1646. Thus, the temple consists of really old buildings. If you want to plunge into the atmosphere of tranquility and antiquity - welcome to Kesimsa.

The site of the martyrdom of over 1,000 Korean Catholics between 1797 and 1872. Pope Francis made a pilgrimage here in 2014.

Stone fortress built between 1417 and 1421. Here was the command post of the army of Chungcheong Province. The main purpose of the fortress is to resist the raids of pirates from Japan. For 10 months, Admiral Li Sunxing served here in 1578.

The oldest temple in Korea is Sudoksa. This temple is unique; he, one of the few Korean temples, was lucky enough to survive the war with Japan in 1592-1598. The oldest building of the temple - its main pavilion Taeungjeong - dates back to the Goryeo period (1308). On the beams supporting the roof of the building, you can still see the unique surviving image of the "Golden Dragon" from the Goryeo period. However, the temple was founded much earlier - in the Baekche era, information about its foundation dates back to the 6th century (Sabi period). Sudoksa is the only surviving Baekje temple!

At the end of the 19th - the first half of the 20th century, the temple became the center of the revival in Korea of "proper Korean" Buddhism, which was persecuted both under the kings of Joseon and under the Japanese colonial authorities. In particular, such famous monks as Gyeongho and Mangon lived and conducted their activities in the temple.